Start off by cutting a strip of 18mm thick plywood 150mm wide. Then, from this strip cut two pieces 460mm long. These will form the front and back walls of the super.
For the sides of the super, cut a strip of plywood 94mm wide, and from this strip cut two pieces 424mm long. You'll also need some other softwood sections to complete the sides. There are:
- 32mm x 18mm x 424mm long (2 pieces required)
- 32mm x 12mm x 424mm long (2 pieces required)
- 44mm x 18mm x 424mm long (2 pieces required)
- 12mm x 6mm x 424mm long (2 pieces required)
Make up the top and bottom side rails and attach them to the plywood side pieces using the same method as described for the brood chamber. The completed super sides are shown in the following photo.
Again, using the same method as described for the brood chamber, make up the basic structure of the super from the previously completed sides and the plywood front and back walls. Check that the super is square and true before the glue dries.
It just remains to add runners or castellated spacers. For supers, I use castellated spacers that take 10 frames. To fit these, first of all turn the super upside down on a flat surface. Then lay the castellated spacers against the inside faces of the sides of the super as shown in the following photo.
Nail the castellated spacer in place and then do the same for the other side of the super. The following photo shows the completed super (turned back up the right way) with a super frame in place. The top of the frame should be flush with the top edges of the super and there should be a bee space between the sides of the frame and the walls of the super, and also a bee space under the bottom of the frame.
Now if everything has gone according to plan, the super should be a perfect fit on top of the brood chamber you have already made.
You should make at least two supers for every hive, but extra supers always come in handy and may be required if you have a bumper honey harvest.
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